Archive for the ‘Puppy Training’ Category

DEFEATING THE DRAGGING- WHEN YOUR PUPPY WON’T WALK WITH YOU

Thursday, October 6th, 2011

You are walking your puppy when suddenly she puts on the brakes and flops to the ground. You tug on the leash, tell her that it’s ok, and finally drag her. When dragging doesn’t work to get her going, you pick her up in frustration and carry her. This scene is repeated every day at the vet’s office, the grooming salon, the pet store, getting into the car, going up/down steps, meeting a stranger and any number of other scenarios that trigger your puppy’s fear. You find that the more you drag her, the more you have to drag her. The more you have to drag her, the more likely that her small fear can develop into a phobia.

A technique used by a popular dog training tv show for fear issues is to use “flooding” on a dog. Flooding is a psychotherapeutic technique used by psychiatrists to immerse a person in their fear as an attempt to demonstrate that given enough time the person’s mind will not stay anxious and when nothing bad happens the person will calm down, thus realizing there was no reason for their fear. Let’s say you have a fear of spiders, so the psychiatrist locks you into a room with thousands of spiders surrounding you. You remain locked in the room until you no longer have a fear of any spider falling or crawling on you. This is flooding. This flooding technique, long ago tried by the dog training/behavior community, was also long ago abandoned by the majority of applied animal behaviorists because of the high probability of psychological repercussion. Whether used in the human or the canine world, flooding is NOT a safe and reliable technique for anyone to use on their dog but an applied animal behaviorist. In other words, the average pet owner (and television celebrity) should never use flooding. It has a high failure rate for most dogs, and can also intensify the fear. That fear can lead to fear aggression; fear aggression can lead to fear biting. It might appear to have short-term success, when actually it has triggered long-term behavior issues you have yet to see.

Desensitization and counter-conditioning, on the other hand, are highly successful techniques to turn fearful into fearless. Desensitization is a way to expose your puppy to low levels of her fear, at the same time she is being counter-conditioned to the fear by changing her association from a state of fear to a state of calm.

First you need to determine where the fear triggers. You don’t need to know what triggers the fear, but you do need to find WHERE she becomes afraid enough to refuse to walk. Maybe it’s near a trash can, a dog barking inside a house, a dog racing along the fence, the smell of the vet’s office, the commotion of the store doorway, walking through the parking lot, or the leap into the car. Again, it doesn’t matter what you think is triggering the fear. Only that you identify an object or area where she becomes afraid. Once you find that fear trigger, you walk her away from it to a spot that is safe; a spot that is just before the point she puts on the brakes. When she’s in the safe spot, she can look at the fear trigger without her brain going into such a state of stress that she can’t learn. Walk her to that safe spot, let her watch the trigger while you reward her with some treat tidbits, then walk her away from the trigger and stop for a few minutes. Walk her back to the safe spot and repeat the process. The more you show her that the trigger isn’t fearful, the closer she’ll be willing to venture until she sees that there is nothing to be fearful of.

COLLAR AND HARNESS STYLES

Thursday, October 6th, 2011

Designed to work like a horse halter, a head collar is designed to stop pulling on leash, and can also be used to prevent jumping and barking. It is not a muzzle. A properly fit head collar sits high on a dog’s neck where it establishes contact with calming acupressure points. It also sits above the dog’s Adam’s Apple to eliminate any neck pressure, choking or throat damage, as well as behind the dog’s lips so the mouth is free to eat, drink, pant and play with toys. The leash connects under the dog’s chin where it gives the handler the ability to control the dog’s head rather than just the dog’s neck. This

BARKING 101

Thursday, October 6th, 2011

There are ELEVEN different reasons that we currently know of, that will cause your puppy to use her bark:

  • Play
  • Fear
  • Pain
  • Excitement or Greeting
  • Territorial
  • Protection
  • Defensive
  • Attention or Care-Seeking
  • Separation Anxiety
  • Frustration
  • Group Vocalizations

Knowing why your puppy is barking is absolutely necessary before you can find a solution to stop it. Let’s take a look at each reason for barking:

Reason Description Solution
Play Sounds made to get people or animals to play with her. Can also be sounds she makes as a normal part of play activity. Includes barking, whining, yipping, and growling.
  • Proper socialization
  • Remove your attention so you don’t unintentionally reinforce the barking
  • Reward quiet and calm behavior
  • Separate multiple dogs
Fear or Anxiety Barking or whining at fear source, such as thunderstorms, fireworks, sirens, loud trucks, or car backfiring. May also generalize the fear to the environment where the fear source was located, such as the backyard because she was caught in a thunderstorm in the yard. Repeated episodes of being in the yard with the thunderstorm may trigger her to bark in the yard even without the thunderstorm.
  • Identify the fear source
  • Minimize the exposure to the fear source; NEVER force her through the fear in the hopes that will stop the barking. You are more likely to make it worse.
  • Consult your veterinarian for appropriate medication to be used in conjunction with behavior modification.
  • Establish a counter-conditioning program.
  • NEVER use a bark collar for fear issues.
Pain High-pitched barking, whimpering, whining, yipping.
  • Take your puppy to the vet to determine what is causing the pain.
  • If not your puppy, call Animal Control for your area.
Excitement or Greeting High-pitched barking, whimpering, whining, yipping. Usually occurs when you come home or she sees/hears someone she knows.
  • Ignore her until she is quiet and calm.
  • Tell other people to do the same when they come in.
  • Teach her a “quiet” cue.
Territorial Persistent and forceful barking usually occurring when someone enters the “perceived” territory. This “perceived” area can be anywhere the dog sees or hears, and is not necessarily property boundaries. Can also occur when dog is in the car. Becomes a stronger behavior when people pass by or walk away because the dog thinks the barking has worked and driven them away.
  • Modify the environment to prevent the dog from being exposed to trigger areas, such as windows.
  • Modify the dog’s exposure to trigger times, such as when kids come home from school.
  • Teach an alternative behavior, such as seeing kids out the window means to go get your ball for a game of toss.
  • Teach her a “quiet” cue.
  • Teach her a “leave it” cue.
Protection Occurs when dog is being protective of people or other animals she is attached to.
  • Proper socialization
  • Teach an alternative behavior such as seeing the situation means she should come to you and do something like “sit” or “lie down” or get a toy so you’ll interact with her and reward her for leaving the situation rather than barking. Teach her something more than just a “quiet” cue so she’ll leave the situation where she feels she needs to be protective.
  • Teach her a “leave it” cue.
Defensive Occurs when she is protecting herself and the space around her.
  • Proper socialization
  • Teach an alternative behavior such as seeing the situation
Attention Seeking Occurs when the dog wants to get attention from you, other people or other animals. This kind of barking happens because she is bored! Dogs are social animals and this kind of barking indicates that she needs more interaction with you!
  • Commit to a minimum of 30 minutes each day dedicated to your pup to play, train, take on walks or to the park. This is your responsibility!
  • Is she an outdoors dog? Then bring her inside, at least twice per day.
  • Make sure her physical needs are being met, like food, clean water, shelter from heat or cold weather.
  • Can’t do these things? Then consider re-homing her.
Separation Anxiety This is panic barking and is usually accompanied by attempts to escape, elimination, destruction, pacing, drooling. Separation Anxiety is a serious issue.
  • The best treatment is to prevent separation anxiety before it starts (see Day 10, Perfect Puppy)
  • Consult your veterinarian for appropriate medication to be used in conjunction with behavior modification.
  • Establish a counter-conditioning program as soon as you know there is a problem. Separation Anxiety does NOT resolve itself on its own, and does continue to get worse.
Frustration Occurs when the dog is prevented from doing something she wants. This may be barking at a squirrel on the fence taunting her, or at her favorite next door neighbor she can’t get to, or a toy in her toy box, or if she can’t get to you. You will also see pacing, circling and lip licking.
  • Identify the frustration source.
  • Modify the environment to prevent the dog from being exposed to trigger areas or objects.
  • Teach her a “leave it” cue.
  • Give her more things to do so she doesn’t get frustrated, in other words, enhance her environment with plenty of interactive toys. For instance, you can hang balls in the yard from tree limbs so she can play tether ball. Teach her that when she sees a squirrel she should go play tether ball.
Group Vocalizations This is the neighborhood bark-fest! One dog starts, then more “bark” in until they are talking to each other.
  • Teach her a “quiet” cue.
  • Modify the yard to minimize her exposure to other dogs.
  • Bring her indoors.

Bark Collars

Never assume that a bark collar, whether it uses shock, citronella or air spray corrections, is the answer. Using a shock, citronella or spray correction can cause all kinds of other behavioral issues if you use it on the wrong reason. Using a bark collar on a pup with frustration can trigger destruction or aggression. Using it on a pup requiring care can result in anxiety. If your pup is barking outdoors because she is bored, then it is up to you to give her needed stimulation, to enrich her environment, not to give her a collar correction. Never, never, never use a shock, spray or citronella collar for group barking because other pups’ barking can trigger the collar. Even if the collar can be set that only your pup can trigger the correction, it is still likely to cause your pup to become dog/dog aggressive or fearful.